I see why u said urs is hovering 140 because u are taking temp after intercooelr,
i find adding per gear timing comp 1 2 3 although works but more likely to introduce knock because most of the time people are hovering around 120 degrees intake air temp at maf during summer in the city and giving more timing just cause more chance detonation problem in the citys if they like to go wot every red light during summer.
I do use 1 2 3 gear comp adding timing during drag racing for that one run only, but when coming back to street i don't find that helping knock problem. Especially when you have people run gas from all kinds of stations.
Being able to do 1 or 2 short burst is not enough for me to say it's safe to use for long term,
I am able to get lot of STI even with timing values of 10 degrees peak torque to 21-23 up top at 19 psi to knock with minues 2.8 already, you can see why i wouldn't even want to add even more timing .
I have not taken TMIC temperatures like u do so can you tell me what kind of temperature u reading u see on the post TMIC when cruising on highway for 5 to 10 mintues ?
If u are only taking reading on the TMIC when its in slow traffic or driving in short burst, i am not surprised the readings are similar to stock. I am only intested in the reading on sustain high speed like highway that will really tell me if ETS core was better or worse than stock.
And your definition of traffic one red light to another with short burst is not same as mine taking one and half hour just to get home from NYC a 15-18 miles distance. The TMIC temperature gets ridiculusly hot moving in those traffic 0 to 10 MPH traffic stop and go traffic.
The car already pulls timing based off of IAT (as measured from the MAF).
I never said I don't get heat-soak driving from
light to light. I meant sitting at a light, not getting through, then sitting again while possibly going 3 mph in between. Today I had construction on my drive to work made a 3 mile section take about 20 mins, never even got out of 1st gear. Ambient temps where 80ish, post TMI temps where about 90, and really hardly moved at all.
I can SIT at one light for llike 5 mins and the post TMIC IAT hardly budges.
The only time I see the post TMIC IAT high is:
-car has been sitting in garage for 30 mins after I shut-it-off
-when in boost for more then a few seconds
I have spent probably 50-60 hrs tuning IAT vs timing comps and other comps in my Subaru (all temps, ranging from -40 to +100).
I actually do understand what you are saying, but adding timing in 5th gear makes no sense, unless you are nowhere near MBT in the lower gears.
Sure when you are driving 80 mph not in boost the post-TMIC temps are close to ambient. Wouldn't matter what TMIC you had on.
Sure if you add timing in 4th or 5th and go WOT for a couple of secs when just cruising along at 80mph you are likely just fine. But get into boost in the higher gears for a bit longer you and you will have big time detonation.
The whole point of less timing in the higher gears is because is the potential for sustained load on the engine, and with our ECU only knowing the IAT as measured at the MAF it has no idea that the TMIC outlet temps are like 140. And trust me, if you beat on it at 80 mph you can get the TMIC oulet temps to 140+, real easy. Heck I can do it when it is 0F outside, just takes longer.