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Remnex's How-To Series: Air Pump Removal

235K views 82 replies 40 participants last post by  CNY_STI 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
About

One of the biggest complaints from 06+ WRX and 07 STI owners is the horrible air pump that takes up a lot of space in the engine bay. Fortunately, this part can be removed with no ill effects. Alright, lets get started.

Please note that this thread will be image heavy in order to establish a standard of over explaination.

Enjoy.


Tools Needed

- Ramps / Lift
- Shop light or a good flash light
- Wrench or cordless impact
- Standard size Ratchet
- 10mm & 12mm deep sockets
- 8mm, 10mm & 12mm standard sized sockets
- 10mm click wrench
- Wobble
- One 6-8" extension
- Pliers
- Two zipties

Time Needed

Provided you have the right tools, this entire job can be accomplished in 45 minutes to one hour. This, however, does not include flashing the computer to remove CELs.

Parts Needed

In order to do this mod you will need to purchase the air pump block off delete from KS Tech; thanks KS Tech. Make sure you get the 07 STI package and the extra gasket. KS Tech quickly shipped this product and provided wonderful customer service. These guys are a smaller company and I always support the smaller folks.

Step One - The Setup

Prepare your tools.



Identify The Target




Step Two - Remove The Intercooler









At this point you should remove the intercooler but pulling up and out. Make sure you don't misplace the hoses. Set the intercooler to the side.

Remove the intercooler support.



Your engine bay should now look like this:




Step Three - Removing The Air Pump

Loosen the need bolts and make sure the pump can move freely.





Remove the battery.




Back to the air pump. Let's free it for removal.






Note: You may need to loosen the fuse box in order to remove the pump.

Step Four - Removing Pieces






Note: Remove the plastic shield will give you remove to move things around for the next part.

Step Five - Blocking Off Head

Follow the pictures in order to get the block off plate on. Observe the gasket when bolting it back to the head. Tighten as needed.














Note: MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THIS!

Reverse the order to put the car back together.



No abnormal idle issues. This was done on a completely cold motor where when started the pump would engage.

All done! :)
 
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#14 ·
yes you should be able to still pass. the air pump is only one for the first 90 seconds or so. as long as they test your car once the engine is warm you wont have an issue.
Agree. As long as you don't fail the visual. The smog pump is only for when the engine is ice cold, which you should never be when getting tested. ;)
 
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#20 · (Edited)
I tested some resistors tonight

unplugged:



wires cut and resistor added (between red with yellow stripe and ground [black with blue stripe or white]):





Test results:

10 ohm - 5.80
100 ohm - 5.80
100k ohm - 12.9
200k ohm - 14.95
300k ohm - 16.40

:)

I need to get some more resistors and find the right value between 100k-200k to get ~14.7
 
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#24 ·
Wirelessly posted (LG EnV Touch)

u2_m4r1n3 said:
SWEET! been looking all over for this today. I want to do this, but I think I'll wait till I go get tuned.

EDIT: Did I read correctly, the COBB AP should be able to get rid of that CEL, or do I still need to go to a tuner?
The AP won't do it on its own, but if you request a copy of Accesstuner Race from Cobb you can use that.
 
#26 ·
Cleaned up.
 
#29 ·
Kstech's airpump delete kit comes only with the plate... screws are optional... can i use the old screws? I read somewhere I need a new one becaue the old one is longer.. but kstech's website states that the new optional screws are just an option and most people use their old screws... so who should I believe? Im confuse.
 
#30 ·
If there too long, then go to the hardware store LOL..

if you have 2 holes to plug, ill sell you the passenger side for $5

its the oem one, my sti came with. i replaced both sides with cosworth plates. so i have a passenger side plate for the wrx and new stis maybe?
 
#35 ·
Had the turbo off, and took the opportunity to block off the two ports in the heads.

Intended to grind out some plates with home made gaskets for the covers, but noticed that the actual holes in the heads is just a round 7mm port, so I just threaded them and screwed a bolt in each, done.

I'm running a Cobb Stage 2 tune, downloaded 'Access Tuner Race' and installed it on my computer - opened my Cobb 93 Octane map with ATR, went to 'advanced' and un-checked the boxes for all the air pump/valve/flow CELs,* clicked 'save' and flashed it back to my Foz.

Cel came on for the infamous P0000, repeated the process for that code and voila! no more lights.

Easy and peasy.

Didn't think ATR would allow me to make changes to an off the shelf Cobb map, but it do!

I'm a happy fozzy driver.

S

(* codes are P0410,11,13,14,16,17,18, P1410,P1418, and P2431,32,33,40,41,42,43,44.)
 
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