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Banjo (Union) bolt removal/re-install

121K views 57 replies 33 participants last post by  sti2relaxxin 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is a step by step of how to remove the Banjo bolt that is on the engine block just across from the up-pipe top flange. Its the one with a filter screen that others have indicated should be cleaned or replaced periodically. Subaru calls it a "Union screw (with protrusion)."

Tools needed:
12 mm socket - for intercooler bracket bolt
14 mm deep-well socket - for up-pipe bracket nut and bolt
10 mm socket or wrench - for stock turbo heat shield bolt
17 mm wratcheting wrench - for Banjo bolt
10 inch or longer extension - to reach up-pipe bracket bolts

Parts needed (See pic "Union bolt and washer part numbers"):
Union screw (if replacing) - Subaru part # 14445AA090
Copper washers (2) - Subaru part # 803912040

Removal and re-install takes about one hour.


Start by removing any heat shields that are in the way. I have the SPT heat shield that comes off by removing the 12 mm intercooler support bolt.
(See pic "Engine bay area"). I also have the stock turbo heat shield installed. I didn't take it off, but there will be a little more room to work if you do. A 10 mm socket is needed to remove the stock heat shield bolts.

Next, the up-pipe bracket needs to be removed to be able to get a wrench onto the Union screw. Remove the nut (on the up-pipe stud) and the other bracket bolt (See pic "Up pipe bracket").

You can just barely see the Union screw from above once the up-pipe bracket is removed (See pic "View1 union bolt").

Next, remove the Union screw using the 17 mm wratcheting wrench (See pic "Wrench on union bolt"). I was only able to get about two clicks of travel on the wrench at a time. After a few turns I was able to get my fingers on the bolt to speed up the removal.

Once the old bolt is removed, you can try to replace the copper washer between the oil pipeline and the engine block with a new one. I was OK with leaving the old one there. I did use a new washer on the new bolt. You can clean up the screen in the old bolt and re-use it, I suppose. I felt better putting a new one in.

The torque spec on the Union screw is 21.4 ft-lbs (29 N-m). I could not get a torque wrench in there so I estimated the tightness based on the way it felt when loosening the old one. Be carefull not to overtighten! I ran the engine for a few minutes and checked for leaks before reinstalling the up-pipe bracket and heat shield.

Next, install the up-pipe bracket using the 14 mm deep-well socket and extension. The torque is 24.6 ft-lbs (33 N-m).

Re-install the stock heat shield using the 10 mm socket. I tightened them to "snug."

Finally, re-install anything else you needed to remove to access the Banjo bolt.

I plan to check for any oil leaking over the nexy few days.

I have about 30K miles on my 06 STi. I don't plan to do this again for at least another 30k miles, unless I have a problem as a result of the screen being clogged.
 

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#28 ·
questions, on the TSB there seems to be two lines, left and right heads. do i need to remove both?
 
#30 ·
AVCS filters are on both banks. Are you certain your car's VIN falls below the number mentioned in the TSB?

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/tsb/banjo_bolts/turbo_oil_feed/02-103-07.pdf

it saids, "Do not confuse the oil supply mesh screen with the Active Valve Control System (AVCS) union screw filter. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-97-05, dated 10/06/05.

which one did u take off? it seems like you took off the AVCS? lmk
This is a how to on the Turbo Oil Feed Line banjo bolt filter. THere is a AVCS filter removal on nasioc and the TSB for those filters also contains instructions.
 
#29 ·
#31 ·
is there write up /how to on turbo oil fee line?
 
#34 ·
ok so the bolt is the one that goes underneath the turbo, right? do i need new bolt or just clean the old one? and removing filter is ok?
 
#35 ·
You can clean the old one. I actually would hesitate to take the screen out alltogether, the one in the turbo oil feed line as identified earlier in this thread. The reason is that there is a single small hole in the oil line bolt on top of the turbo itself. If that small hole gets clogged you will starve the turbo of oil. However, the mesh screen will trap an object that would block the small hole in the bolt on top of the turbo yet let additional oil flow past that point to the turbo.
This is not the AVCS oil feed screen. Thats at another location and does not have a screen in later models.
 
#38 ·
the TSB refers to mostly 05 and earlier turbo models. if your VIN number is 5*502352 or below/less then it left the factory with the AVCS mesh screen thus Subaru recommends removing the mesh screen on the AVCS union bolt. i have a 06 and my VIN is like 200 higher then that number so I don't have the AVCS mesh screen.
all years (of modern wrx/sti's) have oil banjo mesh screens and its up to debate whether that should be removed but, it doesnt hurt to clean it.
 
#41 ·
Man! I did this on my 04 sti on both heads!the passenger side first! Took out the screen!worked greatstarted up.then the driver's side last took the screen out!almost done with the mod yeh!torque it down!then it happened!got done and startedit up. Driver side leaked very bad!big puddle on floor like two qts fast 11 bucks each!tried to reseal it with new crush washers which is a good idea!it has very close tolerances to the size of the banjo bolt and couldn't get it resealed!had another 2 qts on floor of coarse refilling in process!then took a closer look to the damage the (threads pulled while being torqued)awwww!junk head!became a big job!know where this goes to (subaru)!mechanic said he will get it sealed ,1 and half week later got my car back same way!he tried. He couln't do it and warranty didn,t cover it! Hoses and lines. So me, crazy as i am i bought back up heads!i didn't use them though!drilled out carefully and installed brass plug and tapped carefully!cleaned out area with vac and installed new avcs valve because that blocked metal shavings going to motor. Reinstalled everything /torqued. Changed oil just in case after startup with 5 miles and haven't had a problem since four months hard driving!not saying this is a bad mod! But be very carefull with aluminum!crazy stuff can happen!even when torqued for some reason! Especially to your pride and joy it can turn around fast!!
 
#43 ·
1. You can forget about putting on the innermost copper gasket. You can't reach it.
2. Forget about torque settings. You can't get a torque wrench there.

This job is a major PITA.

For ease, remove IC, heatshield and string the electrical junction box behind the air fiilter up out of the way. Kiss you knuckles goodbye.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Are the AVCS screens installed on the MY08 onwards Sti's? I seem to have an issue with left and right intake AVCS not tracking within 1-2 degrees of each other, wondering if it could be this (or the other option would be a faulty solenoid)

Edit - guess I'll check the vin, but from above seems like this is only on the older models.
 
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